I received all the track pieces needed for the outer loop so I have installed the Woodland Scenic risers and used plaster sheets to cover the risers.
I also ran a couple of sets of feeder wires, one set on either set of the bridge span (two Kato deck plate girder bridges) on the back of the layout.
My next task is to get the piers in place for the bridge span. I'll need to do a combination of some sort to get the needed height from the benchwork to the bridges. I will also be working on a tunnel that will run along the left side of the layout.
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Layout Progress Update - January 16, 2011
Well, I have not accomplished much over the holidays (obviously) but have gotten everything layout related moved into the garage which is its new home.
Since I am using Unitrack and I have also been working on feeder tracks but not the Kato brand since I wanted to save money. Instead I have been using the method outlined here: Unitrack Feeder Tutorial
So far it has worked like a charm and if it all works with the final wiring plan I'll be very happy and will have saved some money in the process!
Since I am using Unitrack and I have also been working on feeder tracks but not the Kato brand since I wanted to save money. Instead I have been using the method outlined here: Unitrack Feeder Tutorial
So far it has worked like a charm and if it all works with the final wiring plan I'll be very happy and will have saved some money in the process!
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Layout Progress Update - 12/5/2010
Indecisive anyone? After playing around with the previous draft of the layout I made some tweaks to bring the yard into the middle of the layout. Previously it had been at the top right and to be honest, I felt it was kind of squished and not really getting what I wanted out of it.
Here is the layout I intend to use going forward:
The revised layout still enables the use of a yard which was one of my goals and also incorporates a quasi "double main" if you will.
The outer line will rise on a grade heading out of the yard area and include a bridge spanning a large river and/or lake.
Some progress photos:
Track and foam risers are not secured but hopefully the outer line will be this week as I am awaiting just two more pieces care of the great people of Fifer Hobby.
Here is the layout I intend to use going forward:
The revised layout still enables the use of a yard which was one of my goals and also incorporates a quasi "double main" if you will.
The outer line will rise on a grade heading out of the yard area and include a bridge spanning a large river and/or lake.
Some progress photos:
Track and foam risers are not secured but hopefully the outer line will be this week as I am awaiting just two more pieces care of the great people of Fifer Hobby.
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Layout Progress Update - 11/17/2010
With the bench work complete I began the process of attaching the scenery base.
The base is a single piece of extruded foam which I purchased at Home Depot for around $20.00. The hollow-core door is 36" x 80" which is smaller than the foam so it was necessary to trim the foam.
There are different ways to cut the foam to size and I used a serrated kitchen knife. Now, it is foam, so it is important to cut it someplace where you won't mind the mess it will create and can clean up easy.
With the foam cut to size I then attached it to the hollow-core door using Loctite PL300 Foam board Adhesive. It is important that you use an adhesive that is safe for foam as some types of adhesive can eat away at the foam.
I let the adhesive dry for about 24 hours and added an assortment of heavy books to the top of the bench work to add weight and help ensure the adhesion took evenly.
The next step will to begin track work and scenery.
The base is a single piece of extruded foam which I purchased at Home Depot for around $20.00. The hollow-core door is 36" x 80" which is smaller than the foam so it was necessary to trim the foam.
There are different ways to cut the foam to size and I used a serrated kitchen knife. Now, it is foam, so it is important to cut it someplace where you won't mind the mess it will create and can clean up easy.
With the foam cut to size I then attached it to the hollow-core door using Loctite PL300 Foam board Adhesive. It is important that you use an adhesive that is safe for foam as some types of adhesive can eat away at the foam.
I let the adhesive dry for about 24 hours and added an assortment of heavy books to the top of the bench work to add weight and help ensure the adhesion took evenly.
The next step will to begin track work and scenery.
Monday, November 15, 2010
Layout Design
In designing my layout I wanted to have a few things, namely a yard area and some industries in order to do some switching. There is no shortage of layout plans available from any number of sources so getting ideas is not a problem.
The track that I am using is Kato Unitrack which, while easy to use, is not inexpensive so I wasn't going to just buy track pieces and then just haphazardly put a plan together. In comes XTrackCAD.
XTrackCAD (http://www.xtrkcad.org/Wikka/HomePage) is a free raiload layout planning program available for Windows and Linux. It comes preloaded with popular track types, structures, rolling stock, basically all the tools you need to plan a layout. Its a bit tricky to get going but there are many tutorials to be found on the web that can show you the ins and outs of the program.
By using XTrackCAD I was able to plan out various types of layouts and see how they would look on the layout space that I have available, 36" x 80". Perhaps my favorite feature is the "Parts List" which shows you all the pieces you need based on the layout that you need. If so inclined, you can even add prices so you can calculate just how much money you'll need to convince the finance department you will need.
In any event, via XTrackCAD I was able to come up with:
This plan enables me to have a yard and a few industries for switching. I'll also be adding a town scene, river, etc...
The track that I am using is Kato Unitrack which, while easy to use, is not inexpensive so I wasn't going to just buy track pieces and then just haphazardly put a plan together. In comes XTrackCAD.
XTrackCAD (http://www.xtrkcad.org/Wikka/HomePage) is a free raiload layout planning program available for Windows and Linux. It comes preloaded with popular track types, structures, rolling stock, basically all the tools you need to plan a layout. Its a bit tricky to get going but there are many tutorials to be found on the web that can show you the ins and outs of the program.
By using XTrackCAD I was able to plan out various types of layouts and see how they would look on the layout space that I have available, 36" x 80". Perhaps my favorite feature is the "Parts List" which shows you all the pieces you need based on the layout that you need. If so inclined, you can even add prices so you can calculate just how much money you'll need to convince the finance department you will need.
In any event, via XTrackCAD I was able to come up with:
This plan enables me to have a yard and a few industries for switching. I'll also be adding a town scene, river, etc...
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Getting Started
I'd been interested in model railroads for some time and became more so after attending a few shows with my father-in-law and watching him work on his HO Great Northern layout. Sure enough, I was hooked.
With space a premium I knew I wouldn't have room for an HO scale layout so N Scale was perfect. What's more, I had seen several plans for N Scale layouts on hollow core doors (HCD). So with an HCD and a basic set of Kato Unitrack I was on my way.
There is nothing revolutionary about my HCD benchwork which is exactly the point. To get started all I needed was:
With space a premium I knew I wouldn't have room for an HO scale layout so N Scale was perfect. What's more, I had seen several plans for N Scale layouts on hollow core doors (HCD). So with an HCD and a basic set of Kato Unitrack I was on my way.
There is nothing revolutionary about my HCD benchwork which is exactly the point. To get started all I needed was:
- a hollow core door available from any home improvement store. I picked up a 36" x 80" unfinished door from Lowes but any such store, and any such door, will do;
- a set of replacement banquet table legs. These can be had for under $20 and are standard replacement legs used on any such type of folding table;
- four 1" x 4" boards cut to 36", used to attach the table legs to the hollow core door
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